Tiger of Sweden went for a Gatsby like elegance with slick looks on the runway for the SS16 showing at LC:M
Photos by Arron Dunworth
Reporting by Cristian Burbano
When it started in 1929, Kelso-based A Hume began primarily as a retailer offering a carefully curated selection of brands to its dedicated clientele (including Barbour, Dubarry, RM Williams) in 2014 it moved towards producing its very own line of garments and accessories. Its own collection is manufactured by heritage brand Bladen, using exclusive Tweed from the Lovat Mill in Hawick. The Lovat Mill in Hawick is one of the last remaining mills in the UK still producing tweeds, cloths and textiles of all weaves and weights.
The third generation family run business is headed up by Managing Director Archie Hume who took over in 1987 aged 23. Hume transformed the company from ‘dusty and old fashioned’ to a retailer that caters to all while still remaining loyal to its country wear heritage. The changes have been met with great success with A Hume winning Best Independent Multichannel Operator and Independent Retailer of the Year at the 2014 Drapers Awards.
Tweed and country wear has seen a resurgence in recent years with London Collections: Men filled with sharp tailored looks and tweed garments on show from Savile Row, St James’s & Woolmark. The Museum of London and chart topping rapper Tinie Tempah recently collaborated to make a unique and contemporary three piece tweed suit.
In a move towards the modern and new customer A Hume were also one of the early adapters in country wear to embrace online retailing and social media. Launching its online store (in addition to its 2 stores in Kelso) in 2007 putting it at reach to a worldwide customer base, which currently exceeds 30,000 worldwide form all corners of the globe.
The anniversary tweed collection will run until October this year offering classic menswear with contemporary pieces. In addition to its ready to wear lines A Hume also offers a made-to-measure service for that extra special touch.
Azzarenko caught up with Managing Director Archie Hume to discuss the brand and trend for country wear.
1) Can you provide further details on the 85th anniversary collection?
As we’re celebrating our 85th anniversary this year, we wanted to create something that truly commemorates our heritage. The Scottish Borders are our home and the home of tweed, so it seemed natural for us to create a tweed collection. We’ve tried to make something traditional, using a traditional fabric, to represent our past, and something contemporary, as we move into our next 85 years.
Our tweed collection was inspired by the Scottish countryside around us. The green represents the rolling hills; the blue signifies the coursing waters of the River Tweed. The hint of purple you see in our tweed is inspired by the heather on the hills.
Our limited edition collection has been so successful, but it is an anniversary collection and a limited edition, so we won’t be making any more. This way, the pieces retain their significance.
2) For those not familiar with A Hume or the whole country wear style how would you describe it?
Country wear is universal and timeless. We like to see that our customers come from every generation in a family: grandfathers, fathers and sons. Country wear can be worn in the country or the city, on the riverbank or at the theatre. Country wear is comfortable, useful and timeless, yet fashionable. It’s also an understated and distinctive way of dressing. There’s such a luxurious range of tweeds available, thanks to the experimentation with different colours, weaves and weights, that you can be as casual or smart as you want to be. Tweed offers a very individual way of dressing, like a signature.
3) Since you took over in 1987, how has the A Hume customer changed?
The A Hume customer has become much more aware of what’s out there. There are so many fashion images online and in magazines, and maybe because of this our customers seem to have a greater understanding of what they do and don’t like. They like to create their own style. Our customers are definitely experimenting more with their clothing, and so are we.
What hasn’t changed is that our customers want to look smart, distinctive and elegant. But before I took the reins, A Hume was very much a gentleman’s outfitter. Now we offer ladies wear as well. We offer a wide selection of iconic brands such as RM Williams, Barbour, William Lockie and Dubarry, as well as upcoming younger brands such as Pampeano and Eden Park.
4) For your own designs do you look to current trends (for example slimmer cuts) or do you prefer to keep a more traditional aesthetic?
We actually have a combination of both. We do have some traditional jacketing and tweeds in menswear, which tends to appeal to the older age group. For the younger market, we have designed tweeds with layers of rich colour, such as blues and pinks. Often, we find that men like to go down a size because they want that slimmer fit and a more urbanised aesthetic.
Although we’re a heritage brand, it’s important to us that we stay relevant. So we do our own research, discovering new trends and themes that we can subtly weave into our collections, without compromising our traditional roots. Again, there’s a crossover.
5) There’s been a trend for wearing country/utility wear in everyday city life, especially with the younger generation, particularly with waxed jacket and wellies… What are your thoughts on this shift? On taking country wear into cities?
I’m bored of the business suit; I don’t want to look the same as everyone else. So I think it’s brilliant that the younger generations are mixing it up and being a bit different. I think it’s great when you walk down Piccadilly and see Londoners wearing tweed jackets with chinos.
The Italians are experts at mixing it up. Whenever I’m in Italy, I always admire the way some men team brightly coloured ties and sweaters with tweeds, as street wear. I think smartly dressed people in tweed do stand out, especially when the detail and tailoring is impeccable.
6) What are your signature pieces in the A Hume man’s wardrobe?
A signature tweed jacket. A blue- or pink-checked shirt. A zip-neck cashmere jumper (made from Hawick’s beautiful cashmere yarn).
We actually work to integrate the tweed and cashmere collections; we use colour charts, and when we design the tweeds, we decide which knitwear will sit beside them, to work out what complements them.
RM Williams boots and trousers also look great with our heritage range of Scott Nichol socks; that’s a favourite A Hume look.
7) What’s coming up next for the brand?
We’re already starting to design our new tweeds for Autumn/Winter ‘15 and Spring ‘15/16. Our focus will naturally be our range of tweeds for men and women, but we’re also having fun designing our headwear line, and knitwear and cashmere lines.
We’ve been around for 85 years. We’re very proud of our history. We want to be able to weave our heritage with our future, to build something as timeless as a tweed.
More information on the brand is available online at www.ahume.co.uk
A Hume stores
A Hume Menswear, Ladieswear and Footwear
46, The Square Kelso, TD5 7HL
A Hume Menswear and Footwear
22, Horsemarket Kelso, TD5 7HD
AllSaints has released its SS15 collection, referencing and updating several popular trends from menswear.
Wil Beedle, AllSaints’ Creative Director comments… “Restless global momentum inspires and propels us, the Spring 15 collection challenges our own interpretation of freedom and flight.”
Military, biker, tropical are among some of the themes and trends explored with pieces including Hawaiian print on shirting, tees and outerwear. Outerwear includes a contesting sleeve trench with two tone black/tan.
For the signature AllSaints look there is plenty of skinny black denim jeans with rip details paired with their signature biker reinterpreted in lightweight suede.
Shop the collection at AllSaints stores and AllSaints.com
British retailer New Look has released its SS15 menswear campaign.
The high street favourite has become popular for it’s on trend pieces at accescible price points, with its menswear being a particular highlight in recent seasons.
For SS15 the brand has different lines available, each focusing on a different trend and styles. The running theme for the season is sports luxe. White Noise focuses on longline silhouettes and technical fabrics, which are used to create an urban inspired sports story. Layering with high shine metallic finishes completing the look.
The Outsider is a relaxed rock inspired trend. Bold prints and varied denim washes aid a smooth transition from sixties to seventies. Moroccan, floral and tribal prints cover light weight shirting and granddad collars are a welcome update.
Tailoring comes in soft neutrals and blue hues. Stripes are a focus throughout and this filters through to the hero pin stripe suit of the season. A two-piece pastel blue suit is available paired with a pink shirt and tie combo.
Block bright separates are key for Holiday Shop. Soft pastel bermuda shorts, coloured denim and block colour vests make up this capsule collection. A particular highlight is a classic navy bomber paired in the new campaign with sleek slim fit trousers.
Select SS15 pieces are available now with the holiday shop styles dropping from the end of April/beginning of May.
Prices range from £5.99 up to £19.99 for accessories. Clothing generally ranges from £17.99 – £44.99 with vests and tees starting from £7.99.
Words by Cristian Burbano
British menswear retailer OPEN has released its new offerings for SS15.
The brand launched last year, with a no nonsense approach to menswear retailing, offering on trend, good quality staple menswear pieces at an affordable price point that will appeal to men of all ages.
SS15 is filled of wardrobe staples for the season, classic pieces incorporating current trend all at an affordable price point.
The brand’s in house design team travel the globe in the search for inspiration for its new designs; current pieces come in a varying palette including bold tones with a number of printed styles. Lightweight bombers can be paired with a selection of classic slim legged chinos for an updated take on the preppy trend. On the smarter end you have blazers and collared long sleeved shirts.
Pieces are sleek and clean, no big logos in sight, designs are refined and uncomplicated, filled with wearable and versatile items.
Footwear and accessories complete the collection.
The collection will be available to shop from OPEN stores and online at www.openstores.co.uk
British denim brand Blue Collar Worker has granted Azzarenko an exclusive first look at its SS15 lookbook.
Inspiration for the new season comes from the 1930’s Cornish fishing community and new looks include ecru selvedge denim jeans and striped tops.
At its core the brand specialisis in blue jeans using raw denim (unwashed) which will wear over time to evolve into a unique item for eeach wearer. In addition to jeans the new season contains a comprehensive selection of apparel including shorting, tees, sweatshirts and jackets. The palette for the collection sticks to classic indigo, maintaining the brands signature raw denim aesthetic.
Quality is at the forefront with pockets lined and re-enforced with hidden rivets and bar tacks, seams are 2-ply
stitched for added strength.
Featuring in the new season campaign model Jace Moody, who showcases several looks from the new collection.
SS15 Blue Collar Worker Menswear is available from mid February.
Italian fashion house Versace has released its SS15 menswear campaign.
The new imagery was photographed in New York by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, styled by David Bradshaw and directed by Giovanni Bianco.
Models featured are Filip Hrivnak, Alessio Pozzi and Miroslav Chech.
Hair by Garren and Make up by Lucia Pieroni.
More information on the label here
Words by Cristian Burbano
Tiger of Sweden looked to 1970s Britain as inspiration for its new AW15 looks presented at LC:M.
The decade was a turning point for the youth of Britain, with recession setting in and unemployment at an all time high. Northern cities suffered most with the decline in industry and factories, leaving thousands out of work. It was a bleak time to grow up in. It is in this age of turmoil that saw the rise of the post punk music movement, synth. While punk had it’s place the new emerging synth sounds of spartan futuristics melodies best described the zeitgeist of the time, becoming the soundtrack to many struggling youth.
Bands like Germany’s Kraftwerk became hugely influential, not only in music but fashion too. Tiger of Sweden has heavily referenced this for its new season looks. The tailored looks of synth bands remained for AW15.
The runway was full of jacquard and mohair sharp suits with elongated silhouettes, paired with high waisted trousers and tapered legs, giving the looks a modern feel.
Outerwear is oversized and pay a nod to the colours produced by graphic equalisers, coming in bright shades of neon blue and lime.
Backstage images are Azzarenko exclusive by Arron Dunworth
More information on Tiger of Sweden here
Words by Cristian Burbano
The new design takes inspiration from warm Kopparberg’s Spiced Apple cider with a white base adorned with pops of red and green. Tones of yellow and blue also feature, referencing the golden yellow leaves found in the Swedish town of Kopparberg at this time of year and the town’s lake.
For its creation Leutton Postle visited the town of Kopparberg for research, coming up with a design that best reflects the vibe there and creating a stylish yet comfortable design, a fresh deconstructed take on the traditional ‘fair isle’ knit pattern.
Since graduating from London’s Central Saint Martins in 2005 the brand’s pieces have featured in publications including Vogue, i-D, Dazed & Confused and Nylon.
Commenting on the collaboration, Leutton Postle said….
‘We designed ‘The Kopparberg’ to have an offbeat yet wearable design and want the owner to feel stylish, individual and, most of all, warm and cosy inside and out!’
Azzarenko spoke exclusively to Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle, the designers behind Leutton Postle about their new project and knitwear tips for winter.
Tell us a bit about the Kopparberg collaboration and what the thought process was for the final jumper?
S – Kopparberg wanted to collaborate with a knitwear label for their cosy Spiced Apple Cider, seemed like the perfect fit. The jumper is typically Leutton Postle in that it patterned and very colourful but with a little twist as we took inspiration from Kopparberg’s heritage, the town itself and traditional Swedish knitwear patterns.
J -It was really fun to work on the deconstruction of the Swedish knit as it’s such a recognisable textile pattern in its original form.
What do you enjoy about working in knitwear?
S – Knitwear allows you to work with a broad range of colours and textures that are ever evolving
J – I’m a particular fan of the metallic and glittery ones, we love working with lurex and were excited to knit it into The Kopparberg
What’s your top knitwear style tips for the winter season?
S -Just to wear it how ever you feel comfortable!
Anymore menswear coming up?
S – The Kopparberg is the first unisex design we’ve worked on and it’s been great to introduce Leutton Postle to a male audience
J – Although men have been known to wear our female designs before!
Is the brand stocked in the US?
S – The Kopparberg is not but it can still be bought from anywhere including the states. We design and produce our stock in the UK, although we have had some of our designs stocked in H.Lorenzo in Los Angeles. Also, Lady Gaga and Bjork have both worn our designs so the word is definitely starting to spread so who knows what the future holds.
Words by Cristian Burbano @xtianburbano
The Italian label has a longstanding heritage for luxury travel with its line of trunks and luggage – from check-in to carry-on, fusing functionality with luxury for the needs of the modern traveler.
Occupying 301sq.m the new store features an exterior instillation by Ange Leccia, the contemporary French painter, photographer and filmmaker. Leccia’s works have been exhibited in international galleries and museums, from the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris to the Gugghenheim Museum in New York – and now, inside Louis Vuitton Terminal 5.
Interview with Ange Leccia
How would you describe your work?
I’m a visual artist. I create pictures, videos, films and installations. I adapt myself to different contexts of creation. I enjoy the freedom that comes with being able to work across several mediums.
You’re also a painter and a photographer but what do you like about making films?
Films can be considered as a total art in which the audience is completely engaged on an emotional level. With images in movement, you can arouse mental projections and create poetic links.
How did the collaboration with Louis Vuitton come about?
I have worked with Louis Vuitton for a long time. The house invited me to curate an exhibition titled Travelling in Paris and I have works in Louis Vuitton’s collection.
What was your brief?
For this piece, Nicolas Ghesquière asked me to think about a specific project concerning the sea.
From where did the idea of Giraglia originate?
Giraglia is a small island very close to my Corsican home. It’s become a habit of mine to work with this environment that is so familiar to me. Giraglia already featured in my movie, Nuit Bleue, and when Louis Vuitton called me, I was with my camera in the water, searching for some images.
How long did it take to make, and what was the process?
It took two days for my staff and I to film good images of the rocks under the sea with a specific 4K video camera.
How do you hope it will make people feel when they watch it?
I hope that the audience will respond with their imagination and sensations. I like to create works that have a physical, sensual impact.
What do you hope Giraglia brings to the Louis Vuitton space and the shopping experience overall?
I hope it will bring nature and silence into this space; I hope it creates a relaxing area for the consumer.
The opening coincided with the release of Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2015 collection . Inspired by the Cote d’Azur the collection featuresAquatic motifs abound, from cut out ‘portholes’ on navy sweaters to maritime flares to the rich embroideries depicting coral branches.
More information can be found on louisvuitton.com
Words by Cristian Burbano @xtianburbano