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LCM – Tiger of Sweden AW15 – Backstage Exclusive

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Tiger of Sweden looked to 1970s Britain as inspiration for its new AW15 looks presented at LC:M.

The decade was a turning point for the youth of Britain, with recession setting in and unemployment at an all time high. Northern cities suffered most with the decline in industry and factories, leaving thousands out of work. It was a bleak time to grow up in. It is in this age of turmoil that saw the rise of the post punk music movement, synth. While punk had it’s place the new emerging synth sounds of spartan futuristics melodies best described the zeitgeist of the time,  becoming the soundtrack to many struggling youth.

Bands like Germany’s Kraftwerk became hugely influential, not only in  music but fashion too.  Tiger of Sweden has heavily referenced this for its new season looks. The tailored looks of synth bands remained for AW15.

The runway was full of jacquard and mohair sharp suits with elongated silhouettes, paired with high waisted trousers and tapered legs, giving the looks a modern feel.

Outerwear is oversized and pay a nod to the colours produced by graphic equalisers,  coming in bright shades of neon blue and lime.

Backstage images are Azzarenko exclusive by Arron Dunworth

More information on Tiger of Sweden here

Words by Cristian Burbano

 

LCM – Xander Zhou AW15 – Image Exclusive

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Chinese designer Xander Zhou offered a Cowboy inspired collection of menswear for AW15, presented during London Collections: Men.

“When I first set eyes on Wild West elements, I had the same experience as most westerners when they see oriental elements for the first time – I could only discern their crude forms” Zhou said.
The American Wild West was referenced with hues of  camel, black and navy reminiscent of iconic Western movies. Fabrics ranged  from fur, fringe and leather to tassels and distressed denim. Tassel and fringing adorned several looks  with Navajo inspired patterns featuring on knitwear and outerwear.  Zhou also incorporated his Chinese heritage into the new line with several pieces
embellished calligraphy by Wang Dan.

Rounding of the season were a collect of singular lenses glasses created in collaboration with eyewear designer Percy Lau, which mirror the crosshairs in a gun sight.

Runway images are Azzarenko exclusive by Arron Dunworth

More information on Xander Zhou here

Words by Cristian Burbano

LCM – Nasir Mazhar AW15 – Image Exclusive

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British designer Nasir Mazhar offered attendees at hid LCM show comprehensive collection of sport and street wear inspired looks.

Known for his logo heavy previous collection for AW15 Mazhar opted to step away from this, instead a sleeker and more wearable pieces, offered as full looks or separates.

The classic tracksuit was given a luxe upgrade with mesh panels coming in black and green panels, with oversized cut. Another collection standout was the bubble wrap effect quilted bomber and matching track pants in a bold blue tone.

Another all white tracksuit look features zip details throughout with an exaggerated neck and hood. Mazhar’s signature Bully cap with its pencil holder  and a selection of backpacks completed AW15.

Gold also featured as a signet colour, coming in metallic jacquard fabrics, heavy-duty jackets with shiny, varnished leather pockets.

Backstage images are Azzarenko exclusive by Arron Dunworth

More information on Nasir Mazhar here

Words by Cristian Burbano

 

LCM – John Smedley AW15 – Image Exclusive

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Luxury knitwear label John Smedley held a special presentation at The Swiss Church of London to showcase its AW15 during LC:M.

The new season takes inspiration from the English town of Derbyshire, the place were John Smedley launched back in 1784. New looks reference the mining culture of the time, its biggest industry, with textures and prints from the time used. The semi precious mineral the Derbyshire Blue John (native to the town), with its unique colouring and rock formation, are used as reference points to create new styles.

Knitwear came in variety of styles including turtle necks, sweaters and long sleeve polos, these were paired with blazers and high waited trousers. The  ripples of white, blue and black found in the Derbyshire Blue John stone adorn one of the more eye-catching sweaters on show. While most of the tones are sombre there are colour pops in the use of Inca Gold and Topaz, again referencing stones and minerals found within the mining industry.

Fabrics included merino and cashmere wool used to create lightweight pieces, ideal for layering for the season.

Makeup for the show was provided by AOFM Pro

Lead AOFM Pro Groomer: Michelle Webb

Backstage images are Azzarenko exclusive by Arron Dunworth 

More information on John Smedley here

Words by Cristian Burbano

 

 

LCM – James Long AW15 – Backstage Exclusive

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Elevated functionality was the theme of James Long’s LCM debuted AW15 collection, with the line creating a uniform for those wishing to push menswear beyond utility.“Everything we looked at, we wanted to say that you know, it’s not just a biker jacket. It’s that juxtaposition of glamour and on-the-edge that I always love,” says LongThe designer looked to his archives for new looks, with oversized-collar sheepskin combat jackets referencing his first ever collection.

Leather looks come on form of a square quilted bomber and also in biker and hoddie styles.Distressed denim jackets have oversized utility pockets to exaggerate the functional detail and decoration.

Baroque elegance is updated with lace interpretation with a mesh jacket, or the lace embellishments on a herringbone jersey tracksuit. Illustrations by James Davison of the Sacred Band of Thebes appear on jersey pieces, which are held and fall away from straps.

Footwear are the result of a collaboration with the company, FILLING PIECES.

Hair for the show was provided by Fudge Professional

Backstage images are Azzarenko exclusive by Nancy Gibbs

More information on James Long here

Words by Cristian Burbano

 

LCM – KTZ AW15 – Backstage Exclusive

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KTZ debuted its Clockwork Orange inspired collection of menswear at London Collections: Men.

The brand’s signature monochrome palette once again dominated this season though with the inclusion of greys and occasional colour pops featured. Clockwork Orange’s jumpsuits and suiting looks were remained by KTZ pairing them with the films iconic bowler hats.

Applique and patching détail featured throughout, particularly in outerwear with some featuring political figures including China’s Chairman Mao.

On the more avant grade sign of the collection were looks which made a nod towards inuit culture, the arctic population’s famous fur hoods were recreated but in larger than life form. Outerwear featured oversized circular hoods paired with faux fur yeti like ‘trousers’.

The more wearable pieces included all black bombers and grey overcoats and a number of slim fit jumpsuits including an all black leather style.

More colourful designs included pixel like colour block rings in red, blue and white combinations.

Makeup for the show was provided by AOFM Pro

Lead AOFM Pro Groomer: Michelle Webb

Backstage images are Azzarenko exclusive by Nancy Gibbs

More information on KTZ here

Words by Cristian Burbano 

LCM – Duchamp AW15 – Image Exclusive

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Duchamp debuted its new direction for Autumn Winter 2015 collection as part of London Collections: Men.

The brand held its presentation at the famed Rosewood hotel in London’s Holborn, with attendees enjoying cocktails ad canapés while models showcased the new season looks. Luxury is at the core of the brand with fabrics sourced from the finest  Italian and British mills.

Soft Tailoring and Eveningwear were at the forefront of the new season.

An elegant range of Soft Tailoring came in slim cuts and made from milled cloths. Blazers include open weave Jaspe effects and woven basket weaves. Suits feature 3D textures and presented as separates to easily inter ate into existing men’s wardrobes.  Looks were layered with coats in oversized gallis checks, hounds tooth and block coloured wool and cashmere in camel, sea blue, forest green and monochrome.

For evening attire the brand reinvented classic menswear staples with the use of geometric prints and weaves which form subtle three-dimensional effects throughout. On the higher end there are  50-ounce English silk and Italian velvet dinner jackets create an air of opulence and showcase oversized paisley and botanical prints.

Makeup for the show was provided by AOFM Pro

Lead AOFM Pro Groomer: Yin Lee

Backstage images are Azzarenko exclusive by Nancy Gibbs

More information on Duchamp here

Words by Cristian Burbano

 

LCM – Oliver Spencer AW15 – Backstage Exclusive

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Oliver Spencer debuted his AW15 menswear line as part of London Collections: Men.

Influence for the new season comes from the work of artist and sculptor David Nash, with the elements of the natural world in his work referenced in the use of tones, textures and fabrics.

The runway show took place at The Old Sorting Office with a live folk band providing the soundtrack for the duration.
Fabrics are soft to the touch and included alpaca, recycled cashmere and lambswool. Colours referenced the natural world with creams and charcoals, colour came in form of floral prints.

Shapes and silhouettes were modern and clean, again referencing the sculptures  of David Nash

Further brand info on its website

Backstage images are Azzarenko exclusives by photographer Nancy Gibbs

Words by Cristian Burbano

LCM – Christopher Shannon AW15 – Backstage Exclusive

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British designer Christopher Shannon presented his latest menswear collection for AW15 during the first day of London Collections: Men.

The graduate of famed design school Central Saint Martins showed his collection with a runway show at The Old Sorting Office.

AW15 fuses elements of sportswear with more traditional fabrics to create a range of manly, classically influenced looks. A particular eye catcher are the cinched puffer jackets, intarsia knits, oversized applique sweats, reconstructed popper tracksuiting and technical outerwear. A luxe take on sport wears is also a recurring theme with tracksuits coming in all leather styles.

Fabrics  include wool mélanges and striped shirtings, which contrast with sheen tracksuiting and Velcro-embellished jerseys that can be customized with stick-on shapes.

Colours for the season include charcoal, black and white, navy with red, cobalt, soft oranges and pops of yellow, with the palette inspired by the crossover between the bright sunshine of a summer spent in Aix-en-Provence, and the greys of London in the winter.

The show itself realised eyebrows with several models wearing plastic bags which covered their faces, a reference to the works of photographers including Nigel Shafran.
Shannon continued his relationship with CAT footwear by creating a new selection of shoe styles for the season.

Hair and grooming was provided by Fudge Professional

Backstage Images- Azzarenko exclusives by photographer Arron Dunworth

LCM – Aquascutum AW15 – Backstage Exclusive

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British label Aquascutum made a triumphant return to LCM after its near bankruptcy and subsequent sale in 2012. Since then the brand made a U turn, showcasing a stunning collection of garments for AW15.

Azzarnko is able to bring you a look from backstage in the lead up to the presentation which took place at London’s ICA Theatre.
12 looks were on show with models on podiums, the dim room only lit by spotlights on each model and screens showing the full collection in more detail.

The collection featured heavy emphasis on outerwear with several jacket and coat designs available. Classic overcoats, fur trimmed parkas, trenches and macs. Layered looks were its signature with knitwear paired with shirting and outerwear.  Colours were restraint with a season appropriate palette of greys, blacks, navy and blues.

Looks were just classic pieces, classic menswear pieces which are extremely wearable versatile for most men.

TONI&GUY provided grooming for the presentation headed up by hairdresser Kevin Luchmun.

All backstage images exclusively for Azzarenko by Arron Dunworth 

www.aquascutum.com